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This might be a dumb question but can you hook up a d8 module to it? Or can you bind it to a tiny hawk 3 whoop or tiny hawk 3 freestyle?

Practically no info out there on ccmp heli setup😢

Darren, how would I change the sticks to mode 4? Great videos!!

hey darren could you show how to do it with ethos 1.5 please

Darren, can you make a video describing what's needed to connect wireless HT (Bluetooth) via elrs backpack function if indeed it's possible? Using Tx16S + Radiomaster with Rangemaster module. Home made Bluetooth Arduino HT, all working but hard wired!

Any chance you have a video on how to setup a TWIN receiver with a 900mhz as a satellite for triple redundancy?

Great videos sir! I sometimes get a stutter playing audio files on my new X20S it has a 32gb SanDisk Ultra on board...... Any ideas??

Did I miss something about the gimbals? They look tweaked. Plus great video.

After I updated my firmware my models don't work anymore! Any idea?? Says "invalid data." I tried cloning one, but there are no mixers or anything.

Awesome video! Love your outlook at the end lol good explanation. I love the "Blue" on the x20s, but love the carbon fiber x20 pro! reminds me of a F1 steering wheel and I love F1 racing. I'm looking at getting a new controller for drone flying. I'm heavenly looking at the Radiomaster tx16s transparent mkii. Love how you can customize it, but I would be totally ecstatic with the Frsky Tandem x20 pro. AAAAAAgghhh so many choices...well, not really just two but a major one at that. Keep up the great work.

And one thing more I have lots of quads with me I am fan of inav but I always faced one problem when ever I put my machine in althold it's little bit bump and hold altitude.

Hey sir I stuck in a problem which I didn't see . Actually I always use foxeer gps I tried q120,q250 but this time I try q180 on my inav version 7.1.0 every thing is fine it's fly properly but the problem is if I connect my gps with fc the beeper starts beeping battery is disconnected only USB cable is in computer its continuously beeps and If I connect the battery no beeps sound every thing is working fine it's fly well ,but my problem is this if it's flys well but it's cost me a lot to make I don't know if machine react wrong while flying due to this gps and one thing more if I disconnect the gps connector it's stops beeping .can u help me in this matter thanks in advance

The site to download these files does not have the downgrade option any longer

I believe something here is inaccurate. The 2 blue wires are 2.4 FSK but the 2 black wires are for the TWIN module, one is 2.4 FSK, other is 2.4 Lora.

I still have this problem in 7.1.2. Is there access to the althold PID?

Whats the difference between tw and td receivers and witch one are better?

Hey Darren. It looks like V2.06 Lua is for ETHOS SR10+ and TD SR 8-12 receivers. I had both of these receivers exhibit a weird phenomena on a gas plane. Channels 7-10 had a serious jitter in them only when the engine was running. I thought it was ign interference, WRONG. It was the 2 independent Stabilizing Functions thing. It was cured by turning OFF the "Second Independent Stabilizing Functions" using the Lua Script V2.06. Its on page 2 of 2 !!!, which is hard to find to adjust. It is ON by default, not a good idea IMHO. This video showed me how to find page 2, at 13:55, thankfully. I hope this helps others who stumbled on this like me. Thanks

Great video learnt something

Hi Darren crusty old bush pilot here trying to learn ethos before I purchase a transmitter (Tadem XE) everything is as you show in this video with the exception of previous versions on the git hub page. I’m looking at the xe latest version and it only shows Ethos 1.5.11 and no previous versions. Would this be because it is a complete make over and everything required would be in this version? or am I looking at this site incorrectly. Your video’s are very much appreciated as I don’t think I would try an open source transmitter without your help or painless 360 and Andrew Newton. All of you are very kind with your patience and time.

Thanks for the video. But you forgot the "pitot_hardware=ADC" option that could also cause a arming block on some FCs. Some FCs have the Pitot tube set to ADC by default in their target but if no sensor is attached, the free floating ADC can cause erratic data and makes the runtime calibration fail or take infinite time.

Hi darren , i dont understand i didn’t see autotrim !! Did they canceled this mode ? Thanks

Using this to toggle the 3W headlights i put on my quad

I must say,miss your Inav vids Darren hope work is treating you well......look forward to more vids,take care my friend.

Thank you it is very helpful. Is it possible to bypass the 6 sats minimum for arming via the CLI? I tought 3 or 4 sats should be the minimum for 3D fix. The four firsts sats are easy to obtain but the 5th and 6th are so loooong to fix.

Very nice info video

How do you say use one to swich your timer on and off

Just got an X20S. My back cover 4 screws are Torx (maybe a recent change)

Hey nice I did the right thing. Just have to say. Inav has came so far I started flying inav in the early days Been working on new build. For a year now. Life just happened so haven’t been able to finish it yet. I assume the same with you not having many videos. Is what it is bud. Good to see you back. I haven’t flew since last fall. Crazy last last year I flew over 6k miles. And nothing since. Plan on going today got some packs charged. It’s a sign from the fpv gods. That u uploaded this video. Thanks so much for all the help and work you have put into this. I would have never gotten this far without you. In your opinion what’s the best long range air frame? Don’t know if u remember me used to have pic of my dog instead of A

Thank you! Changing subject a little, what is the benefit of using a tube to measure the wind? Does INAV do anything with this?

Man bro miss the vids. I have no baro maytek 765 w inv 6.1 I just turned off barometer

Very useful video. Currently I am having issues with an AtomRc Dolphin torque roll on auto launch. No matter what mode I select iNav cannot catch it in time to prevent a roll into ground. Any suggestions welcome. Throttle set to 70%

I started skipping forward every time he mentioned soldering. It's repetitive and just not something I'm majorly concerned over, but we keep going back and talking about it again and again.

Hi Darren, is there a way to setup the calibration with the receiver facing pin to the front of the plane? The cables in my plane won’t allow the pins facing the back of the plane. (Archer Plus SR8 and/or 10) BTW love your video's, they are very informative and helpful!

On Ethos X20S Firmware version 1.5.9 I was able to copy files over using your instructions but cannot select it as there is no 'Play Track' option, allowing choice of one of the files I've copied. I see the 'play audio' option (which doesn't have choice to set file) but there is not a 'Play Track' option. Any idea how I can enable 'Play Track' and File selection to show up please?

Thank you very much. I solved my problem

I know we are talking about auto lunch...but is there any video that explains how auto land decides where to land respectively to the home position?

I got this FRSKY 20S and I wanted to program this thing so I could fly my RC model here in my ranch. not to fly a SpaceX or NASA rocket into orbit. Cause im not a rocket scientist… I’m gonna return this transmitter tomorrow. This is just a bad nightmare. Couldn’t even find those menus. Very frustrating to try to switch to this radio brand. What’s the best brand ? The old one JR that works wonders. Not going thru this.

Just installed this in a nano goblin, seems to be pretty great for that purpose. I'm sure people have figured it out but it's worth noting that the cable with the connector not installed is for the GPS, not the HD vtx, they specifically left the connector off so that you can install the wires in the order needed for whatever gps you are using. (in my case an hglrc m100 with compass, which works flawlessly). The lack of a vtx power switch is a bummer, especially since I am using digital, but I have been just using a usb power source ( portable phone charger) plugged into the board, without the flight batt connected, to let the gps get locked without powering the vtx and risking overheating. Then plug in the flight batt and disconnect the external ups power to keep the board powered, or vise versa, the gps will almost instantly lock again if the board is only powered of for a second...and off you go. So far have had no issues. If that is a no-no for some reason I'd love to hear why, as I am by no means an expert.

Thank you! Super helpful! I just updated to the latest iNav configurator as well as firmware on my quads. It was driving me crazy where my desktop computer iNav shows imperial while my laptop computer iNav (for use on the field) shows metric when I connect my quad. Hahaha

Is this video still valid with 7.0?

How do you get the picture on that?

How do you add the picture to the model select page?

I don't know if I made some mistakes but after updating my Taranis X9D to firmware 2.1.0 I'm not able anymore to set internal module to D8. I can reduce channels range to 8 for having lower latency but the only mode I actually can select for my internal XJT are D16 and LR12. Any hint? thank you

Hi. Thank you for this video and the article on your website. Could you tell us if we should do this with or wihout VTX and servos powered during the calibration? If we add offset calculation, is the value drop to zero amps even if we power the VTX and ESC or the value would be greater than zero? Thank you.

After having reviewed all the previous viewer comments, I too finally understand your process. I was initially concerned that all you were doing was killing the throttle servo’s movement. The use of the servo was a little confusing, but “that” was meant to demonstrate the passing of “signal" to the iBEC/Opto Kill. Viewers can’t see you physically triggering the backside buttons, and may take a few rewinds to pick that out. Many flyers I know are accustomed to the standard two-position “H” switch as a killer for ESC or Petrol signals. With FrSky making the H switch momentary it gets confusing. I’m also new to FrSky and your video content “is” helpful. Thanks!

Limited Edition not Special Edition ... maybe that's why you can't buy them anymore. Radiomaster miss the point of coloured plastic. E.g. Visibility, heat absorbtion. Also the high gloss ones are painted.

Thanks for your information

I ordered a pair. Thanks Mr. D

Hi Darren. Just purchased a Frsky x20s and I am trying to make my throttle stick go to the centre to use with boats, cars etc. could you please tell me how to do this please.